One of the better spots in Tirana to sit and watch the world go by is Rinia Park in the centre of the city. It wasn't always that way. During the free for all of the post-communist era the park disappeared under dozens of illegally constructed restaurants, cafes and clubs. It was only in 1999-2000 that the municipality reclaimed the park, demolished the buildings and redeveloped the site.
As well as re-establishing the green spaces and the pathways, and installing a complex of fountains the municipality allowed part of the site to be used for restaurant and entertainment complex called Tajvan (that's Taiwan for us English speakers, but don't ask me why). The complex houses a nice Italian restaurant - Casa di Pasta - a cafe, a bowling alley and a casino - complete with 'No Handguns' signs.
The novelty of having an attractive park downtown has given rise to a new business opportunity for some of Tirana's entrepreneurs. Photographers patrol the area ready to take pictures of passers-by against the backdrop of the fountains. At night both the Tajvan complex and the fountains are nicely lit and the photographers often work late since evening shots seem to be popular. Reluctant as I am to take work away from people earning an honest crust I took my own photographs - and they won't cost you a penny.