This is Berat, a 2,500 year old city about 3 hours south of Tirana. The castle pictured here dates from the 13th century and was built by the Turks on a hilltop overlooking the city. The city is hoping to be named as a UNESCO world heritage site soon. The castle contains the remains of many Orthodox churches. One of these now contains a museum which displays a wide range of icons painted by Albania's most famous painter of icons, Onufri. There is a good website here. (You'll need Flash and it won't work on Firefox - shame on them).
Le Monde Diplomatique has been musing in its very French way about The Dream of a Greater Albania . The reliably vitriolic AA Gill is reliably vitriolic about Albania in the Sunday Times . Sensitive Albanians might want to give this one a miss. The Guardian carries an obituary of Gramoz Pashko.